Risotto-style pasta

Several years ago the NY Times published a recipe by Alain Ducasse, in which he explained the process of making pasta using the technique for risotto (couldn’t find the link). Cooking pasta in stock in an uncovered pot really concentrates the flavors of the stock and produces a light but creamy sauce. I’ve used Ducasse’s recipe as a base many times to throw together an easy midweek meal using ingredients that I have on hand. Last night it was penne pasta with potatoes, sausage, and sage, served with the 2006 Flaherty. You can’t go wrong with potatoes and sage.

A note on leeks: I used to get so frustrated when a recipe called for just the white part of the leeks. That is often only about an inch at the base! I use the greens for stock, but it still seems like such a waste to not use the bulk of the stalk in the recipe. I have thus taken to including a lot of the pale green section of the leek along with the white part, and I have never had a problem with the end result. (My pictures are rather dark today. We moved our clocks back a week ago, so dinner is now after sunset.)

Risotto-style pasta

250 grams (half pound) sausage
1/4 cup olive oil
3 or 4 TBSP butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 or 3 leeks, mostly white part, chopped
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cup white wine
1 can tomatoes, drained and roughly chopped (some juice is fine)
250 grams (half pound) of potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
400 grams (one pound) Italian penne pasta
5–6 cups homemade chicken stock
120 grams (4 ounces) freshly grated parmesan cheese
fresh sage, chopped (basil is also nice)
salt and pepper

Precook the sausage by boiling (this removes a lot of the fat).

Bring the stock to a simmer in a small pot.

Heat the oil and butter in a separate pot, then add the onions and leaks. When the onion has softened, add the garlic and briefly saute. Add the wine and stew the leeks for a few minutes. Add the tomatoes, potatoes, and pasta, stirring to coat. Add about two cups stock and let simmer, stirring occasionally. As the stock is absorbed, add another ladleful. I keep more liquid in the pot than I would for a risotto, but the idea is the same—to gradually add the stock as it is absorbed, rather than boiling the pasta in a pot of liquid. When the pasta is al dente (15–20 minutes), gently fold in the cheese and herbs. Adjust the salt and pepper and serve. (I don’t add salt up front because the stock is lightly salted and the cheese contributes additional salt.)